P4C: Environmental Portrait Composition Tips

Of course the technical end of photography is only a small part of getting a good photo. Let's take a look at some general tips in composing your portraits (and yes, even self portraits):

• Position people between camera and subject
• Focus on people
• People at side
• Wide aperture (lower numbers) 
for separation, narrow (higher numbers) for depth

The best way to move from the tourist-style snapshots is by separating the people in your photo from the background. I prefer to set-up my photo of the background to create a good image of just that, then add my people closer to the camera making them as prominent as the primary object I'm capturing in the background. Generally you'll want to get your people from waist up allowing them to be larger in the frame. It also looks best to have them off to either the left or right side of the frame rather than in the center. To focus on them with many cameras you can use a technique usually called the "half-press." Move the camera so the people are in the center, press the shutter half-way to focus, then without releasing the button recompose then press the button all the way. Work on these tips and before long you'll see a difference in your photos (we'll work on the aperture later).

Just a reminder that this Saturday is the Geocaching 12 of 12. Haul your camera out and grab a dozen shots to tell the story of your day of geocaching then share them over at geocaching12of12.com.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Arm's Length Self Portrait

As I write today about self portrait taken from arm's length you'll notice that I'm contradicting some of the points I made in the last Photography4Cachers post. Without an LCD capable of facing the lens it can be very challenging to get a good image especially at close range. The technique of holding your camera out as far in front of yourself as possible is very useful when caching alone or without a good location for a support. In brief, here's what you'll be doing for a good arm's length self portrait:

• Zoom out (on most compact cameras you'll need to zoom out as far as possible),
• check behind you (that will be the background in your photo and make sure the sun won't be back there),
  
• hold camera at arm’s length,
  
• look into the lens,
• position the camera at or above your eyes,
• gently press the shutter release,
  
• check and re-shoot if you're not happy with the results.
  

Despite the advice in the last post to avoid wide angle focal lengths for portraits, there's not much choice under these conditions. There's not much distance between your head and the camera, so wide shots can't be avoided. The bonus though is that shaking is harder to detect in images captured with wide angle focal length and your far less stable with your hand stretched out. It also will allow for more of the background to make it in behind your head for a better sense of where you are. The wide will still tend to give you an apparent big head, but by keeping the camera's position high you're more likely to enlarge the eyes rather other features like your nose or nostrils. As much as I want to see your photo, I really don't want to look up your nose.

The hardest part is figuring out where the camera is pointed without that LCD to frame the shot. What has worked the best for me on most cameras is to look straight down the lens, then tilt the camera down just slightly. I'll still have to remember where I was looking when I check the photo and retake it a couple of times, but it's a great spot to start. This is where the compact digital camera has really helped -- imagine if you couldn't check your photo in the field? Take advantage of that though, and once you find a position that works try to remember where that was so you can replicate it next time.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Tips for Self Potraits

All the information in this series leads us into the taking of photos. The most important for Geocachers being the Self Portrait whether for Virtual or Earthcache requirements, milestone photos, or just the photos for scrapbooking and posting online. So when you're ready to take one, think about these points:

• Stand in frame and look for markers
• Set-up your support (tripod, bean bag, or other support)
• Set your self timer or use the remote
• Stay tight (zoom in and avoid wide angle settings)
• Try the flash

The challenge of setting up a self portrait is in composing the image. Being that your main subject (yourself) isn't in the frame as you set-up the camera you'll have to check for things like door frames or branches in the frame near where you'll be standing. Those marks will help you figure out whether you'll be in frame or chopping off your head. Be aware though of the background as you generally don't want it to look like you have an antenna or tree coming out of your head. But never forget that you're working in digital images now and can review the photos right there. If something doesn't look good, try it again. With practice you'll learn what works best and get faster at setting up and shooting your self portraits.

An important point to getting a flattering image of people is to stay telephoto rather than going wide. Wide angle captures distort the image with objects in the center appearing larger and shrinking toward the outside. The result is that your subject will look fatter than in real life. The more the wide angle, the more significant the effect. Using telephoto focal lengths will be more pleasing so it's best to stick with those settings. This is such a significant subject that I'll talk more about it in future postings. Next week though we'll look at taking self-portraits at arm's length.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Using a Flash When Geocaching

As Geocachers we generally have the luxury of natural, bright, outdoor lighting by which to take our photos. Those sunny days we enjoy so much can lead to some nasty shadows on the faces of the Geocachers in our photos. When the clouds roll in they'll give us a nice, soft light to reduce the shadows, and we can sometimes shoot under the cover of a tree or awning, but many times we need those shots out in the sun with those heavy shadows on the faces. Using your camera's flash -- either built-in or external -- can help by lighting up those shadows and reducing their impact. Check your camera's manual for details about using fill flash, but many times it's as easy as turning on the flash without the red-eye reduction features. Some cameras have a slow- or high-speed flash sync mode you'll want to turn on as well and your manual should tell you how to do that. The difference can be astounding, so take some time to play with your camera and test the results. We're working with digital cameras now so try a few different versions of the photo with different settings to get a feel for how the settings work. Most cameras do a good job automatically controlling the flash and balancing out the light, but don't be afraid to take manual control and try a few settings if your camera allows it. Avoid relying on that LCD on the camera when reviewing the photos -- bring them back to your computer to make your judgments as the camera's LCD isn't nearly as good. With a little practice you'll likely find that flash to be as valuable outdoors as indoors.

We're only about a month away from the June 2010 Geocaching 12 of 12. We'd love to see photos of your Geocaching so head over to geocaching12of12.com for information on how to submit your photos. This will be a good opportunity to share you hobbies with the world and fellow Geocachers and Photographers.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Self-Timers and Remote Releases

There are a couple of functions cameras offer which really make it possible to shoot self-portraits -- the self-timer and remote releases. Not all cameras will have both functions, some don't have either, but both gives you the time to set-up the shot and get into the frame before taking the picture. In this article I'll just cover the basics, but look for future articles where I'll write about various situations when you'll want to use these.

The more common of the two features is the self-timer which is built into most cameras. Many times the self-timer function is accessed through a dedicated button, but sometimes you might have to scroll through menus or find it on a dial or switch. Check the camera's manual for access and settings, but look on your camera for a round icon with a dot at the top and a diagonal line for the hand of the timer. Once engaged the self-timer generally gives you audible beeps or visual blinks as it counts down (anywhere from 2 through 10 seconds) once you press the shutter release. You'll sometimes have options in the menus of the camera to control that length between pressing the release and when the photo is captured. 5 seconds is usually enough to walk into the frame and position yourself. For larger groups and longer distances you might find that 10 seconds works better. If you're just looking for a short delay when holding out the camera at arms' length then the 2 second setting is usually best. Most cameras only engage the self-timer for the one shot though and if you'd like a second you'll have to run back to the camera and reset for another go.

The more expensive option is the remote release. The cable release has been in use for more than a century and is the most reliable. Wired or cabled releases allow a direct connection to the camera and therefore aren't easy to interrupt. They can be painful to use since you're physically connected to the camera through some type of cable. Many newer cameras offer a wireless, IR release. This eliminates the cable freeing you from that physical connection to the camera. Because it's an optical connection, exactly like the remote for a television, you must have a clear line-of-sight to the camera and bright lights can render the remote useless. An interesting class of remote releases work on radio signals. These still cut the physical connection between the camera and the remote, don't need to be line-of-sight, and offer greater distances between the remote and the camera. They are illegal in some countries and subject to interference which can keep them from working at all, or trigger the camera erroneously. All of these are specific to a camera or manufacturer. Not all cameras support a remote release option, but those which do support them usually allow the remote to release the shutter directly or with the self-timer making them great options for grabbing your self-portrait.

For my part I use both the self-timer and the remote release. The camera and the situation tend to determine which modes I use and what types of remote release. I'll write more about that later, but in the meantime check your camera's manual for information about your self-timer and remote release options. Be prepared next time for some information about how a flash can help Geocachers with their outdoor photos.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Camera Supports

Having looked last week at the most important piece of photographic gear you can purchase, let's move on to the next most important item. Camera supports vary from the well know tripod through more innovative designs for solo shooting. Having some form of camera support is important to Geocachers for a couple of major reasons. The most obvious is that many times you'll need to be in the photos with a group of fellow cachers or some specific items in the background. While you can sometimes hold the camera at arm's length, that's not always going to work, particularly with larger groups or when you need something particular in the background. Another is that camera supports help steady the camera allowing for longer exposure times in low light. You'll also find that video is much easier to watch when captured from a stable platform rather than your shaky hand. I have a variety of supports at my disposal and will readily admit that more times than not the tripod stays in the car. I usually keep something handy, and there's a wide range of options from which I can pick.

We'll start by looking at the most obvious support. A tripod is always a good, safe photographic investment if you're willing to spend the money for good quality. They'll outlast your digital camera, and very likely your car. I have an older Bogen tripod which was the second I purchased new nearly a quarter century ago and it's still going strong. That first was an affordable model and only lasted a couple years. I've since added many more tripods for more specific goals like being small and light on the trail, or strong and better at handling the big lenses. The first rule to getting a good tripod is pretty simple though, you're not likely to find one at a big box store. The ones from the big box stores can be a good starter or throw-away options for lighter cameras and many travelers like them since they're cheap and easy to replace when destroyed or lost by the airline. There are also some small tripods built to stand on desks or be attached to branches. While these might not be tall enough to set-up in the middle of the trail you can frequently find a sign, railing, boulder, or tree to use. No matter which route you choose, carefully check the weight the tripod supports (not the weight of the tripod itself) and make sure that it will properly handle your camera with a little extra to spare for things like batteries or your hands. Choose well and you'll probably not need to replace the tripod as long as you cache.

photo by Lawrence of Berkley

The more simple form of camera support is the bean bag. These have regained popularity with the expanding use of digital cameras and cameraphones. A bean bag requires something on which to set it and the camera but doesn't require that the camera have a tripod socket making them ideal for cameraphones. Typically these are handmade by the user, but a variety of premade options have begun popping up. One of the more interesting derivatives is the Monsterpod which does require a tripod socket. It can stick to many smooth surfaces thanks to a gel in its underside. (I grabbed one of these Monsterpods but have yet to try it.) Try making a bean bag yourself, perhaps in your favorite colors. They're small and can usually fit into a pocket when on the trail.

photo by Lawrence of Berkley

The most interesting class of camera support really hadn't been seen much before the digital camera revolution. These are sticks with a tripod post at the end to secure the camera. These are designed to be held out in front of you for better self-portraits than simply holding the camera at arm's length. Some like the Xshot are available self contained, but I was recently contacted to try one designed for hikers. The StickPic is a simple ring you slide onto your trekking pole then attach your compact camera to it. They sent me one to try out and I really haven't used it much, but love the concept. These are great for getting a little needed distance between you and the camera. Don't count on them to help in low light situations as holding the camera out like that will be less stable than hand-holding.

This is by no means a complete list of options. There are all sorts of goodies left out from here, but I've tried to touch on some of the better, more common options for Geocachers. Here are my recommendations for Geocachers based on their camera type;
For cameraphone users: Try a bean bag. There are tripods (like the Gorilla Mobile) specifically made for some cameraphones and that's a great option as well.
For compact camera users: Try the Gorillapod. These are small, flexible tripods great for use on the trail and generally don't cost too much. If you're already using a trekking pole add the StickPic for those quick self-portraits.
For super-zoom users: A cheap tripod from one of the big box stores might be your best pick to start. That will allow you a range of heights and will free stand on the trail. Of course Gorillapod has options that work too and are worth consideration.
For DSLR users: For all your photography I can't recommend highly enough buying a quality tripod. A great alternative though is the bean bag which can get closer to the ground and will be easier to carry.
Future articles in this series will talk more about how to take advantage of these supports, but come back next week as we look a self-timers and remote releases.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Cameras

There are more cameras today than ever before and each type serves a different purpose. For simplicity I'll break the list up into four basic groups; cameraphones, compacts, super-zooms, and SLRs. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but keep in mind that any camera won't do any good if it's sitting on the shelf at home when you're out and want a photo. For that reason you'll often find that your cameraphone is the best camera for geocaching. However if you're like me you want something much more flexible with better quality than your phone can offer. Being that we want to post these photos online we're best served by digital cameras rather than film, and at this point its pretty hard to find a new film camera. Now let's look at each of those four classes and the benefits and draws backs of each as they apply to Geocachers.Cameraphone refers not just to phones with built-in cameras, but to many small standalone devices using the same chips as are built into cameraphones. They generally have lenses without optical zoom capabilities, instead offering a digital zoom if anything. That makes them smaller and lighter but inhibits the quality of the image. (Much of the difference between cameras is actually in the optics rather than the sensor, and a digital zoom simply crops in on the image reducing quality and resolution.) They usually lack an iris to control the light depending instead on changing the sensitivity and length of the exposure which limits their usability in extreme lighting conditions. Despite these drawbacks, there's two things which make phones great cameras. When coupled with a data plan they can send images or videos immediately from just about anywhere. You can e-mail a photo to a cache owner, upload to a web photo gallery, or even tweet without connecting through a computer. The other factor is they're small, weight very little, and you're most likely already carrying one. That last point is what makes it such a wonderful tool for Geocachers.

Compact cameras come in a range from simple to advanced usually providing better image quality and options than the cameraphones. Many include both optical and digital zooms, while still remaining small and light. These lenses are usually targeted at the general user who want to shoot photos at parties, and of children playing, but not the birds in the far off trees, so don't look for large magnification factors here. (Remember that when a camera is said to have a "3X Zoom" that refers only to the range of the zoom from the widest to most telephoto lengths and not to the magnification factor.) A few compact cameras are sealed to shoot underwater, in the rain, snow, and mud without damaging the camera itself. Finding a camera like this, built with some shock resistance as well, makes a great option for a camera on the trail. Generally they don't allow for much manual control preferring to rely on automated features making them easy to use and user-proof. There are some which provide those manual control but typically you'll have to move into the super-zooms or SLRs for those features.

Super-zoom cameras are much larger, heavier, and sport wider zoom ranges with more telephoto options than the compacts. They frequently allow their users to manually control the aperture, shutter speed, and focus giving creative and technical control for those who want it. I typically find this class to be the least useful as they're about the same cost, weight, and size as the low-end of the SLR market. Like just about everything else you'll find the exception like a high-speed shutter, built-in GPSR for geotagging, or a wireless connection to make them appealing.

SLRs have been around since the days of packaged film and were the cameras which quality photography to the masses. The abbreviation stands for Single Lens Reflex, meaning the user is looking through the same lens as will be used to record the image thanks to a mirror which lifts before the shutter opens to take the picture. Today they range from small, low-cost kits available for beginners through the large, very expensive professional bodies. SLRs provide an optical viewfinder which doesn't get washed out by the sun or have any lag as with LCD viewfinders. They usually feature interchangeable lens systems giving the owner the option to purchase the range of lenses they want. SLRs are big, heavy, and cost more than the compact cameras, but give you much more control and versatility.

photo by Lawrence of Berkley

Of course being the gear head I am, at least one of each of these camera classes exist in my stable. The only camera I am guaranteed to have with me is the iPhone 3G S. I actually prefer that over the compact camera because of the size, connection, and the versatility of the iPhone (I can edit and send the photo before I've left the cache). The compact camera I carry on some of the riskier hikes is one of those waterproof, shockproof models. The Lumix DMC-TS1 gives me the protection of not needing to worry about dropping it in the mud or river, then if I do a little water cleans it right up. The camera I prefer to use on the trail is really the Nikon D300s DSLRs (the extra "D" stands for digital). That's a slightly smaller camera than the Nikon D700 I usually use to shoot, but with it's smaller image sensor I get to use smaller, lighter lenses, and some with great ranges.

photo by Lawrence of Berkley

It gives me the same controls though as the bigger version which is that I like when I'm shooting. It's big and heavy though so most of the Geocaching trips it stays at home. The only camera I never use is the super-zoom as it's only a little smaller than the D300s without the image quality, control, battery life, or even zoom range I can get through a couple of lenses on that D300s. Since I always have the iPhone though, I'm really looking to have something at the opposite end of that camera spectrum on the trail – when I want to haul it around.

Next I'll talk a little more about gear, but if you have a digital camera chances are it will serve you well in the field. If not, perhaps this information has given you a little help to see the camera features better for caching. Never forget though that the cameraphone you're carrying with you is always there making it the best camera you have for geocaching.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Adding Photos to Descriptions

With that URL for an image we grabbed last week, it's time to add the image into a cache or trackable description. We'll need to use some very basic HTML to use that URL. While the trackables use HTML code by default in their descriptions, cache descriptions require that you set a checkbox on the cache editing page to allow the HTML code. Starting from the edit page for your cache, just under the "Details" heading look for the "The descriptions below are in HTML" checkbox and make sure it is selected. Now you're ready drop in the HTML code to show your image in the description.

The most basic way to include the image in the description is by entering the following:

<img src="URL">

(the URL should be the image URL you grabbed from last week's article). This simple drops in the image inline with the text as formatted. To get it on it's own line, add line breaks in front and behind, so it looks like this:

<br><img src="http://host.com/image.jpg"><br>

If you'd rather, and I generally do, you can have the text wrap around the image by placing it at either the left or right (I should note that once support for IE6 is terminated on Geocaching.com there are better ways to do this) by adding align:

<img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" align="right">

It's generally best to size the image before upload, but you can have the browser do the work through the image tag by adding width and height:

<img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" width="50%" height="50%">

This can be especially useful by linking to the full size image allowing the user to click through:

<a href="http://host.com/image.jpg"><img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" width="50%" height="50%"></a>

Of course there's much more you can do with HTML and even the image tag, so this is just the basics of how to get in and add the image to the descriptions. For more information about the image tag and it's usage check out w3schools.com. I highly recommend playing with these commands on an unpublished listing to see how they work and test to see if they're compatible. There's a bunch of good information about HTML and it's worth checking out to improve your listings.

Fortunately that wraps up the information about posting images to Geocaching.com and next week starting talking about the gear. Come back then for information about cameras and some basic gear you'll want handy on the trail. Don't forget that next Monday is the twelfth, another chance to try the 12 of 12.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Getting an Image URL

Getting your photo into your gallery on Geocaching.com is just the first step toward inserting it into the description for a cache or trackable. The next step is to grab the URL for the image you want to use. Just head to the image and grab that URL. How that works varies based on which web browser you happen to be using. We'll start by getting to the right image from your gallery on Geocaching.com (assuming that you're not at that image). You'll need to start by going to your public profile (when logged-in, click on you're screen name, then the stats bar). Across the top are several tabs, click on the "Gallery" tab for a table of recent images you've uploaded. This page shows only the twenty most recent images uploaded so you might have to go a few pages into your gallery if you want something less recent. Once you've located the image you want to use, click on it's thumbnail. You'll find your caption and description on this new page with the image to the right. To grab that URL for the full resolution image, you'll need to right-click (control-click for Macintosh users with a single mouse button) on that image but the menus vary based on which browser and plug-ins you have installed (see the screen capture). Firefox users will pick "Copy Link Location," in Internet Explorer choose "Copy Shortcut," and in Safari you'll pick "Copy Link." Before continuing I'd suggest pasting that URL into the browser's address bar to validate that you have the right URL. It should always look like this (but longer):

http://host.com/image.jpg

(Look for that ".jpg" or ".gif" at the end to confirm that it's a image rather than a page you'll be calling.) Don't loose that URL though as you go to the cache or trackable page where you'd like to use that image and we'll start there next week.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Uploading to Geocaching.com

The following information and screen captures was based on the Geocaching.com site as of February 2, 2010 and may change with future site updates.

Now that you have your photo prepped and ready for Geocaching.com, it's time to upload it. Geocaching.com allows uploads to log, cache listings, and trackables. All work in about the same way, they're just initiated through a little different method. In all cases you'll find the link toward the upper right corner of the page, though labeled differently in each case. After submitting a log, look for the "Upload Image" link. On caches you own, look for the "upload images" link, or on your trackable, look for the "Upload an Image" link. When you click on that link you will be presented the image upload page (see the clipping to the right). You'll start by clicking on the "Browse..." button to the right of the "File" title. That brings up a dialog where you'll navigate your local files to find the one you want to upload. Once that's selected you can fill in the "File Caption" field with the title of your photo, and the "File Description" field with the story behind your photo. Both of these fields are optional, but I prefer to at least give the photo a title. When you're ready just click on the "Upload" button beneath the "File Description" field and wait. The upload time depends on the speed of the connection to the servers, but your 600px x 600px JPEG shouldn't take long over a broadband connection. Once completed you'll see your photo with a few options including to upload another image. If you're sending up several photos, just repeat this process till all you photos are on Geocaching.com. All of them will be tied to the log (if that's where you uploaded them), or in the gallery for either the cache or trackable. Come back next week I'll spend some time on grabbing that image URL and how you can insert that photo into your cache or trackable description.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Resizing Photos for Upload

Just as we used to select different print sizes from the photo lab, we need to produce image files of different sizes for different uses in the digital age. Prints require higher resolution than displaying on screen. For example, a normal quality 4" x 6" print is 300ppi (pixels per inch), or 1,200px x 1,800px (px=pixels). That same image for use on a local screen would typically be about 682px x 1,024px, just a little smaller. On the web however, we're generally looking at images smaller than 533px x 800px. Sending that print file would typically work, but generally wastes resources and can create a poor quality image when rendered as it is resized by that website or browser. In the case of images sent to Groundspeak's servers (including Geocaching.com), the images should be no more than 600 pixels on either side. So a standard photo would be either 400px x 600px (traditional 3:2 still images) or 450px x 600px (for 4:3 video images) to upload. This will keep their servers from messing with the pixels and gives you the same image quality as you sent to them. For most other websites I stick with the 800 pixel longest edge limit as it give a good quality image without providing enough detail to be good for print (should someone steal an image without permission). For all sites you'll want to use the JPEG (.jpg) file format with higher quality, lower compression. Once you have that 600px JPEG you're ready to upload, and we'll go into that next week.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Photo Projects

An enjoyable way to improve your photography skills is participation in a photo project. There are two common projects within the Geocaching community -- the "12 of 12" and "Project 365." The 12 of 12 was started back in January 2006 by Chad Darnell as means to document a day in his life and he invited readers of his blog to join in. The goal was to have the submissions show how different people from all over the world live the same day in twelve photos on the twelfth day of each month. When done traditionally you'll end up with a little photo diary of your day to share with others. This year is the last for Chad Darnell's listings, but the project lives on in many other locations. We in the Geocaching community have our own version twice each year at Geocaching12of12.com. Each month many Geocachers participate and submit their sets to the Podcacher forums. I try to participate in this project when I can and it's a great exercise as well as being entertaining to look back at your previous sets to see what you were doing in the past. The March 12 of 12 is coming up shortly so perhaps you want to try pulling out that camera (cameraphones are especially good for this one as you always have it with you) and grabbing twelve photos of your day. The Geocaching 12 of 12 site has some good information on what to do (you just won't be able to submit your set to the Geocaching 12 of 12 site as that's not till June). You'll find it can be quite challenging to get all those images, but with practice you'll find that it gets easier to do better sets and those skills transfer well into creating both single and series of images.

September 12 of 12: Geocaching 12 of 12 by Darryl Wattenberg

Project 365 is a bigger commitment but a bigger reward. As you've likely figured out already this project aims to create a single image each day to represent your day. The first version I know of was done by Jamie Livingston through Polaroid photos. The result is an amazing and touching story of the final years in the life of this man who was taken by cancer in 1997. In the digital age it's become a much easier and less costly project which many have taken on. For 2010 Sonny of the Podcacher Podcast began his and invited Geocachers to do their own sets. The challenge with the Project 365 is to select one photo which best represents each day and to collect them into a group. This again gives to you an excuse and a mission to get out shooting. If you're looking to try your hand at a photo each day check out Photojojo's article and pick your day to start.

Either of these project or the many others out there will give you the chance to work on your photography skills. While it's important to push yourself to improve your skills but make sure that you have fun at it. When you're done have a look back though and you'll probably see an improvement in your images as well as a few things you'd forgotten from years back.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

P4C: Photography4Cachers Series

With this post I'm kicking off the "Photography4Cachers" series on this blog and the Geocaching Podcast. The concept came from several requests that I host a session at "Cachercon 2010" on photo tips, tricks, and some basic skills for Geocachers. I prepared that talk as a back-up session which wasn't used (fortunately all the scheduled hosts were able to give their talks). Even before the conference I worked with Xpunkx of the Geocaching Podcast on planning out a series of short packages for that show, tied to a series of blog posts on our "DarrylW4 & Firefly03" blog, reposting to the Geocaching Podcast's blog. In many cases I'll have a single topic spread over several articles to allow individual concepts time to be practiced and quickly digested. These articles will drop each Tuesday morning, then the recorded audio segments will be played on that evening's recording of the Geocaching Podcast. You'll be able to hear me talking about the topic, then browse over here for any supporting images or a full refresher. The articles will be short and aim to be easy to digest covering information Geocachers will want for taking and posting photos. The first several have been written up and prepped for release and many more are planned. Please drop me an e-mail if you have questions on any of these topics though and I'll work on answering those either directly or through an answers article later in the series. We have yet to determine how long or how much to cover in this series and your input will help shape the future of "Photography4Cachers." Make sure to get your camera ready and join us next week as we kick off the first of the articles.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.